It is gray and raining outside (what else is new) and I am drawn to a little storefront in New Canaan that sells muffins.

I love muffins. If I were the surgeon general of the United States, I would re-do the famous food pyramid and put muffins as the base layer, the cornerstone on which all other food rests.

Muffins are a Yankee wonder and I do not mean the baseball team. Our Connecticut forebears concocted an array of wonders out of the simplest ingredients: butter, flour, sugar and berries. People who live west of New York do not get it. They think desserts have to be decadent to be good. I have eaten muffins coast to coast (as well as grunts, pandowdies, Grape Nut pudding and other minimalist cousins of the dowdy muffin ) and believe only in New England are muffins made correctly.

I admit I was not overwhelmed walking into Connecticut Muffin, but that might have been a good thing. I have lost count of the times I ordered gigantic splendid- looking muffins only to take a bite and discover a bland “out of the box” cake mix taste.

So here I am looking at a rather small assortment of muffins that do not take my breath away. I order some anyway. Normal people order one, a food critic orders half a dozen. My choices were modest in size, rather like a cupcake, but the rain was coming down in sheets and two ladies sitting at one of the tables were content enjoying a vanilla latte and a couple of muffins.

I took their lead and ordered a good cappuccino, six muffins and after a hearty sip of coffee made a mad dash to my car. I reached into the bakery bag and blindly pinched off a corner of unknown muffin number one. It was the blueberry one (my favorite) and with one bite I snapped to attention. It was perfect, great berry-to-dough ratio, sweet enough to be a pastry but not sugary like a donut or cookie.

Again I reached blindly into the paper bag. Out came a hunk of the corn muffin. How delicious it was! At home, where no one but my dogs monitor my actions, I would have used half a stick of sweet butter on it, but I was not home and the muffin had to stand on its own. Again, I was pleasantly surprised. It was fine sans butter.

The other four I tried were lemon poppyseed, cranberry orange, morning glory and honey banana bran. By the time I arrived, the selection was small. I am sure many choice muffins had been snatched up by other hungry folks. I am looking forward to returning and trying walnut with banana, nutmeg pumpkin and jumbo blueberry corn.

If no one had told me that the blueberry apple muffin was low fat, I would never have known. Health foodies, order here with no fear. Non-health foodies, eat anything that looks good.

One other surprise were the yummy little loaf cakes I also took home. The size of a big brownie, the pumpkin spice loaf with cream cheese frosting was exceptional. One nice thing about being stuck inside a bakery in a rainstorm was that I had the time to notice more then muffins. There was a good-looking selection of scones from savory (cheddar cheese) to almond, blueberry and gingerbread. And then my eyes found the cookies. The cookies were the size of dinner plates. There was a choice of chocolate chip and ginger molasses. I ordered both. The ginger molasses was a soft cookie, the kind that bends but does not break. It had a wonderful autumnal taste and was worth the calories.

I was also able to snatch up the few remaining bagels that are delivered here from New York daily. They were the real McCoy, plump and still with a rubber bite to them. People have told me that the large array of cream cheeses, from scallion to strawberry, are worth looking into..

Connecticut Muffin

108 Main St., New Canaan

www.connecticutmuffin.com

Connecticut Muffin is not a destination restaurant or one that you will be bragging about for the next five years, but it is a perfect independently owned storefront, a great place to wait out a rainstorm.

I saved the rest of the corn muffin for when I got home. With only my French bulldog, Cecil, to watch, I used half a stick of unsweetened Plugra French butter. I figured as a fellow Francophile, he would understand.

Jane Stern, a Ridgefield resident, co-authored the popular “Roadfood” guidebook series.